Hybrid beauty meets its match: Why polyglyceryl esters are powering the future of skincare innovation

Latest News Calendar Date 07/05/2025
Hybrid beauty meets its match: Why polyglyceryl esters are powering the future of skincare innovation

As the hybrid beauty trend accelerates, the industry’s gaze is shifting towards ingredients that are not only multifunctional, but sustainable, scalable, and strategically smart. These requirements can be answered by naturally derived polyglyceryl esters - a powerhouse ingredient class that’s rapidly becoming the backbone of next-generation formulations. 

While the concept of multifunctional beauty isn’t new, the evolution of hybrid beauty is taking the term a step further by embracing advanced ingredients that work harder and smarter across a broader range of product types. As consumers continue to demand more from less, including reduced waste, less formulation complexity, and fewer synthetic ingredients in formulations, polyglyceryl esters are emerging as a clear strategic win for brands and formulators alike. 

Formulation efficiency without compromise 

From serums and micellar waters to balms and emulsions, today’s products must tick multiple boxes: performance, sensorial quality, skin-friendliness, and sustainability. That’s a tall order - especially when formulators are under pressure to rationalise SKUs, simplify sourcing, and meet regulatory demands. 

Here’s where polyglyceryl esters shine. Derived from renewable, plant-based oils or fatty acids, these biodegradable, non-ionic surfactants can act as emulsifiers, emollients, solubilisers, or mild surfactants. Their amphiphilic structure (both oil- and water-loving) enables them to create stable emulsions across both water-in-oil and oil-in-water formulations - eliminating the need for multiple ingredients to do the same job, enabling cleaner labels, and faster development, without sacrificing performance. 

The science behind stability 

Creating stable emulsions, particularly those that incorporate both oil- and water-soluble actives has long been a formulation pain point. Polyglyceryl esters are solving this by addressing one of the biggest challenges: emulsion instability caused by creaming, coalescence, and flocculation. 

Thanks to their broad Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) range, polyglyceryl esters adapt easily to a variety of formulation needs. A low HLB, typically between 4 and 6 is ideal for water-in-oil emulsifiers. Polyglyceryl esters with a high HLB, between 15 and 18 is perfect to use to solubilise essential oils and fragrances. 

This flexibility means formulators can develop elegant, stable products using fewer components reducing risk, cost, and complexity.  

Here are the reasons many brands are making the switch: 

1. Formulation freedom - blend water- and oil-soluble actives like retinol and niacinamide with ease. Hybrid beauty demands this kind of freedom — and polyglyceryl esters make it possible. 

2. Elevated sensory experience - polyglyceryl esters improve texture, glide, and absorption, enhancing the feel of creams, gels, and lotions — a crucial factor in consumer satisfaction. 

3. Clean labels, fewer ingredients - with one polyglyceryl ester often replacing multiple ingredients, brands can simplify their INCI list and appeal to the minimalist, “skinimalist” consumer. 

4. Sustainable to the core - plant-based, solvent-free, and cold-process friendly, these esters align with carbon reduction goals and green formulation strategies — all while lowering energy and waste during production. 

 

Sustainability with substance 

Up to 40% of consumers now prioritise natural ingredients, and the pressure is on for brands to deliver cleaner, greener beauty. Polyglyceryl esters support this by: 

  • Enabling cold-process production, reducing energy consumption 

  • Delivering high conversion rates, reducing chemical byproducts 

  • Eliminating the need for petrochemical inputs 

  • Offering ready biodegradability, reducing environmental load 

The result? A more responsible, cost-effective formulation strategy that meets today’s regulatory and ethical expectations. 

 

A catalyst for change 

Hybrid beauty is no longer a niche – it's the new normal. As the industry continues to prioritise transparency, performance, and environmental responsibility, ingredients like polyglyceryl esters are poised to lead the charge. 

For brands and formulators, this is more than a formulation trend. It’s a strategic imperative. By leveraging polyglyceryl esters, you don’t just meet evolving expectations but get ahead of them. 

In the race to create next-gen beauty products, it’s not just about doing more with less:  it’s about doing it better, smarter, and more sustainably. 

Want help optimising your formulations with our Durosoft range of polyglyceryl esters? Let’s talk innovation strategy.

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Timothy Pulleyn
Timothy Pulleyn Marketing Manager

Tim uses data and trends from the likes of market-leading brands, manufacturers and research companies to understand where customers should focus on future new product development.