How to make Cinnamon & Coffee ReBatch Soap

Here we show you how to transform our new ReBatch Base into some beautiful Cinnamon & Coffee rustic soap bars. Simple easy and totally natural it's time to Grate and Bake!

How to make Cinnamon & Coffee ReBatch Soap

This weekend I worked on my first ever batch of soap using Stephenson Personal Care’s ReBatch soap base.

What is ReBatch soap base you ask?

Great question! It is basically a big chunk of traditional soap base. Stephenson make this base using 100% RSPO Sustainable Palm and Palm Kernel Oils, you can read about the oils Stephenson use just here . It’s the same soap base that Stephenson use to supply some of the world’s leading brands and retailers so that they can process fantastic bar soaps. The difference is Stephenson can supply us soapers this material as block of soap base that is easy to grate down, melt and Re-Batch {hence the name} into a new natural rustic soap creation.

Why on Earth would you ever want to take a perfectly good batch of soap and rebatch it? That’s another great question :)

First, if you’re a brave enough soul to make soap from scratch then you know just how dangerous handling lye—a necessary and highly caustic ingredient in soap-making—can be. You also know that traditional, from-scratch soap doesn’t always turn out quite right every time—sometimes you end up with a lot of useless goo, soap that is too lye heavy (too much free caustic) This is where rebatching comes in. Take the Stephenson ReBatch soap, grate it down, melt it, and fix it up!

Then why do I use ReBatch soap base, you ask?

Because Stephenson’s ReBatch base is a fantastic way to bridge the gap between melt-and-pour soap making and traditional cold process soap making. When melted, it’s consistency is much like that of hot process soap, ReBatch soap bars come out looking more textured and rustic, with a look and feel similar to cold process soap bars. Plus, rebatch base is great if you want to use delicate ingredients that, for whatever reason, do not respond well to lye solutions used in making from-scratch soap, or additions that don’t work well in Melt and Pour soap bases.

There are a couple things to keep in mind when using rebatch base:

  • It melts to a thick paste and is a lot more viscous than normal melt-and-pour soap base. For this reason I recommend using a loaf mold, although you can use soap bar molds. Note that soap bar molds with detailing will make lifting your soap out of the mold difficult, and the detailing may not appear as desired.
  • Don’t expect the level of detail that you can acheive with Melt and Pour Soap Bases.
  • It sets a lot faster than melt-and-pour bases do, so you must work quickly!
  • The base is not curing or reacting, once you pour / scoop out you simply wait for a day or two for the bars to dry, and set hard.
  • It’s a lot faster than Cold Process Soap Making, with the same end result!

So let’s get started…

Step 1

First, gather your ingredients. For this cinnamon hazelnut coffee soap, I used cinnamon, milk, cinnamon hazelnut coffee grounds, milk and honey fragrance oil, and of course Stephenson Personal Care’s ReBatch base.

Step 2

Determine how many pounds of soap base you will need, and then begin grating your base down. I expected this part to be super tedious, but Stephenson’s base is so smooth and easy to work with that grating was a breeze—and I grated through three pounds of soap base!

The rebatch base is softer than a normal bar of soap and easier to cut through than their melt-and-pour base {which is pretty easy to cut through as well}. I found the base to be more scent-free than Stephenson’s melt-and-pour bases, which have a neutral but clean, soapy smell to them. The rebatch base is also a little sticker than the melt-and-pour base, due to the moisture that helps it to melt {you’ll know what I mean when you’re done grating you’ve managed to somehow get little grated pieces it all over your counter!}, but this isn’t a problem.

Step 3

When everything’s grated, put your base in a double boiler or crock pot and heat on medium-high, stirring frequently, about every five minutes. Depending on the amount of base you’re using {and how cold it is in your kitchen, apparently}, it can take anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour for your base to melt down. I was using quite a bit of base so it took a while for the base to melt.

Step 4 (optional)

To speed up the melting process, you can add distilled water {or milk, or goat’s milk} to your base, keeping in mind that the more liquid {water/milk and later, fragrance oils} you add the longer it will take for your base to set and the softer your finished bar will be. I added in about 1/2 cup milk to my three pounds of base. You really don’t need much {and you could probably get away without adding any}.

{I also didn’t use a real double boiler—just a large pot of water with a Pyrex bowl over it. It works, but it’s a little precarious.}

As it’s melting, it will start to turn creamy on the bottom. Be sure to stir! And as tempting as it may be to walk away, do not leave your melting base unattended. This process would be easier in a double boiler // crock pot type melting method.

Once your base is melted, it will be thick and creamy throughout. It may turn a little darker in color and look ever-so-slightly gel-like and translucent as well, don’t worry just keep moving the soap base and it will melt to a smooth thick creamy paste.

Step 5

Once you’ve reached this point, you can start adding your additives: fragrance oil, cinnamon, and coffee grounds. When adding fragrance oil, Stephenson recommends not adding more than 3% additional oils to this rebatch base as too much oil can affect the performance of the soap, but it’s worth experimenting to see how the soaps turn out.

And this is where I started working quickly! So quickly, in fact, that I didn’t even think to grab the camera and take pictures! Fortunately, the rest of the process is pretty simple.

After I added the coffee grounds, the soap really darkened up in color and became a more coffee-colored brown. For a more textured/marble look to your soap, don’t mix in your additives quite all the way, it leave things a little more rustic.

Step 6

Once your additives are in, scoop/pour your base into your mold. I used a loaf mold made of plastic. Silicone loaf molds and wooden loaf molds work just as well, but keep in mind that wooden loaf molds require a wax paper liner so that you can remove your soap.

Step 7

Right after you’ve poured your soap into the mold, give the mold a couple of good strong taps on a hard surface. This will help the soap settle and eliminate any air bubbles in your soap. I let my ReBatch soap in the mold overnight before taking it out the next morning.

Step 8

From here, cut your soap into slices using a sharp knife or soap cutting tool. Since I didn’t stir in my additives all the way, I ended up with a neat rough and textured look to my bars. If you find that the sides of your bars aren’t as smooth as you like, you can always smooth it down with your knife later.

Step 9

It’s recommended that you let your soap dry out and harden for two days prior to use. I noticed a significant change in the moisture of my soap just after leaving it out overnight, it really depends how long you can wait before using it!

Step 10

Now it’s time to Enjoy your soaps! Don’t forget to #soapandshare I know at least 5 of my bars are packed in bubble wrap ready to be sent to my mom in Arizona! :)#### Your title here…

You can see our ReBatch Base product just here.

Thanks to Gabby for working with us on this latest ReBatch Blog post. Gabby is a DIY/craft/lifestyle blogger located in Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA. She blogs over at Essentially Eclectic. You can check out her blog here, and you can follow along on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and by email!

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